Nirinso

When an evening calls for well-crafted seasonal bites alongside a thoughtful drink, the Takashimadaira izakaya Nirinso fits the mood nicely. Inside its calm dining room, the meal often opens with an otoshi appetizer that reveals careful prep work, followed by choices that naturally appeal to drinks enthusiasts: fresh tuna and other seasonal sashimi, simmered kinmedai (splendid alfonsino), and crisp, golden tempura.

A major draw here is the seasonal rotation. Come autumn, many diners look forward to rich, comforting dobin mushi broth, while seasonal delicacies such as shirako (milt) with ponzu, tempura-fried shirako, and deep-fried dojo loach keep cups of sake filled. The kitchen goes beyond seafood as well, turning out carefully grilled salt-seasoned chicken, kushiage skewers, and vegetable plates like new potatoes with buttered asparagus, inviting you to set out a few small dishes and graze at an easy pace.

The drinks list is well matched to the food. Draft beer is on hand, and staff are happy to discuss serving temperatures when warming chosen bottles of sake. With counter seating and tables arranged in a warm, welcoming space, it makes a comforting neighborhood perch for an evening drink.